Origins Of A Timeless Tradition
Kalamkari, an ancient textile art form originating in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh, has a rich history that spans over 3,000 years. Its name, derived from the Persian words qalam (pen) and kari (craftsmanship), translates to “pen-work” and reflects its unique technique of freehand drawing. During the Vijayanagara Empire, Kalamkari gained popularity in South India, and the Mughals, who encountered the art in the Deccan region, named it “Kalamkari,” celebrating the artisans as “Qualamkars.”
What were the earliest developments of Kalamkari, and how did it influence ancient art?
The discovery of resist-dyed cloth on a Harappan vase highlights Kalamkari's ancient origins, linked to the historic port of Machilipatnam. Temple panels in this art depict Hindu mythology, similar to Buddhist Thangka paintings. Historically called Pattachitra (“cloth picture”), it appears in Odisha and Nepal, with Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain texts referencing such painted textiles. Supported by the Golconda Sultanate and later the Mughals, Kalamkari endures as a cherished blend of myth, art, and natural dyes.
Different Branches Of A Common Tree
The Kalahasti style of Kalamkari, originating in Srikalahasti, Tirupati, involves freehand drawing and colouring with a pen (kalam), all crafted by hand. This style is rooted in religious themes, depicting deities like Brahma, Saraswati, Ganesh, Shiva, and Parvati, and scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Puranas. Traditionally, it adorned scrolls, temple hangings, chariot banners, and wall art, telling mythological stories.
In contrast, the Machilipatnam style, influenced by Persian art due to Mughal and Golconda Sultanate patronage, avoids Hindu motifs, instead using Persian designs—floral patterns, cartwheels, creepers, and birds like parrots and peacocks. Often featuring the "tree of life," it was mainly used for table linens, bed covers, curtains, dress materials, and wall hangings. Under the Mughal Empire in 1687, it evolved to depict imperial portraits and court scenes.
Who were Chitrakattis ?
In ancient times, Kalamkari brought tales of gods and Vedic beings to life. Wandering storytellers, known as Chitrakattis, used natural dyes and simple tools to paint Hindu epics on large canvases, preserving these divine stories for generations.
The Process : Timeless Artistry
Kalamkari begins by steeping fabric in a mix of resins and buffalo milk, then sun-drying it. Design outlines are drawn with mordants, followed by a dye bath to set colors. Wax covers areas not to be dyed blue, and the fabric is dipped in indigo; once wax is removed, remaining sections are hand-painted, much like batik. Artists use a special pen of bamboo or date palm with fine hair tips, dipped in jaggery and water, for intricate detailing. Natural dyes from roots, leaves, and minerals add color, while myrobalan and buffalo milk help set and purify the dyes.
Has it changed in modern times?
The better answer would be evolved ! from its origins in religious art depicting Hindu deities to gaining prominence under Mughal rule. Andhra Pradesh now leads in its production. Modern techniques in Masulipatnam have introduced block-printed mordants in place of wax resist and iron acetate instead of indigo for black dyeing. Traditionally illustrating epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata, today’s Kalamkari also features images of Buddha, musical instruments, animals, and symbols, adding fresh dimensions to this timeless art form.
Kalamkari Predates The Modern Concept Of Sustainability
While the west preaches the concept of sustainability India’s civilisation originated on the core values of a sustainability and love for nature and so does our societies, philosophies and art forms.
Indian culture has long embraced sustainability, seen in arts like Kalamkari. Using natural dyes and traditional methods, Kalamkari offers eco-friendly, durable fabrics that support sustainable fashion. As awareness of eco-conscious choices grows, Kalamkari’s low-waste, nature-rooted practices make it a timeless choice for those seeking responsibly crafted, unique designs—embodying sustainable artistry in today’s fashion.
The Art Reflects The Spirit Of India
Kalamkari is a vibrant part of India’s cultural heritage, blending creativity, spirituality, and nature. Passed down through generations, it preserves India’s artistic legacy while inspiring modern interpretations. A symbol of timeless craftsmanship, Kalamkari embodies the country's artistic soul and cultural identity for the future.